This Rome information blog entry is written for the English peaking guests of the Bed and Breakfast Little Italy Rome and the B&B Chaplin Hostel.
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Spanish Steps
The Spanish Steps (Scalinata di Piazza di Spagna) consist of a set of steep stairs (138 steps, 12 flights) between Piazza di Spagna at the base and Piazza Trinità dei Monti (on a shoulder of the Pincio hill) at the top. The steps were built between 1723 and 1726 with a legacy from the French diplomat Stefano Gueffier. Initially the piazza was divided into two parts, the French Square (because the French ambassador resided there) and the Spanish Square. The steps themselves, however, came to be called Spanish Steps after the Spanish Square (which was called Spanish because the Spanish embassy to the Holy See was – and is - located there). For a while, in the 17th century, the entire Piazza di Spagna was considered Spanish territory. Apparently foreigners unwittingly trespassing into the area could even find themselves all of a sudden to be soldiers in the Spanish army.
The idea of connecting the Spanish Square with the church of Trinità dei Monti dates from the 17th century. The French also planned on adding an equestrial statue of King Louis XIV of France at the top of the staircase. Papal opposition caused the plans to be shelved until 1723, when Pope Innocent III ordered it to be built without the statue. The Spanish Steps were designed by Francesco de Santis, who used many ideas originally put forward by Alessandro Specchi.
Trinità dei Monti
The gothic church with a renaissance façade at the top of the steps, Trinità dei Monti, is a French church however. In 1495 King Louis VII commissioned it in order to replace the small chapel that was there before. Construction started in 1502 but it wasn’t consecrated – by Pope Sixtus V – until 1585. It has two bell towers. Inside there are various paintings by Daniele da Volterra, one of Michelangelo’s pupils.
The obelisk in front of Trinità dei Monti was ordered to be moved from the Gardens of Sallust to its current location in 1788 by Pope Pius VI. The hieroglyphs were copied from the obelisk on the Piazza del Popolo.
Spanish Square
To the right as you face the steps you will see the house where the English poet John Keats died (in 1821). It has been transformed into a small museum, the Keats and Shelley Memorial House (open 9am-1pm and 2.30-5.30pm).
At the base of the steps is the boat-shaped fountain, the Barcaccia (“ugly boat”) believed to be made by Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s father, Pietro. The design was inspired by a small boat that was left on the square after Rome was flooded in 1598. The Fontana della Barcaccia is set very low in order to make maximum use of the lack of water pressure in the Piazza di Spagna. It was Pope Urban VIII Barberini who commissioned the fountain and therefore it is decorated with bees and suns (the Barberini coat of arms).
In the south-east part of the square is the Colonna dell’Immacolata (1857). It is topped by a statue of the Virgin Mary and rest on a base featuring statues of the prophets Moses, Isaiah, Ezekiel and David. The column, which was found under a monastery in 1777, celebrates the Christian Dogma of the Immaculate Conception. Every year, on December 8th, the Pope comes here.
The column stands in front of the Palazzo di Propaganda Fide with a façade by Bernini. To the right of this is another façade designed by Borromini in 1662.
The Spanish Steps Nowadays
The Spanish Steps nowadays are mostly famous for the atmosphere created when thousands of tourists meet there during the afternoons and evenings, but already in the 18th and 19th centuries the Piazza di Spagna was popular as a gathering space. At the time it was Rome’s main hotel district (in the days before trains and plains the Piazza del Popolo was the first piazza inside the Roman walls for tourists arriving from the north) and travelers used to flock to the square in search of artistic inspiration (which is probably what they told their wives) and Italian mistresses. The wealthy foreigners also attracted many beggars, who were in their turn supplied with sad letters by the scribes working in the piazza.
During Christmas time a 19th century crib is assembled on the first set of stairs and in May a large part of the steps is covered by huge pots of azaleas (the Spanish Steps you usually see on the picture postcards).
After the last of many restorations (in 1995) eating food and especially drinking was forbidden at the Spanish Steps, largely because of the enormous mess that had to be cleaned up after the crowds of - mostly younger – tourists had gone back to their hotels, hostels or bed and breakfasts. It is not a law that gets enforced very much (to be sure, no law in Italy does), but you can get fined if you disobey it.
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Directions from Chaplin Hostel and Little Italy B&B
To get to the Spanish steps from the Little Italy Bed and Breakfast Rome you take the metro line A from Vittorio Emanuele to Spagna (4 stops). From the Rome Hostel Chaplin Bed and Breakfast it is only 3 stops (from Roma Termini to Spagna). If the steps are too much for you to climb, there is a lift to the top outside the “Spagna” metro station.